tasting notes//late winter

handmade pasta as a desire exercise, lots of tartare, decorating pies, and clarified cocktails

COOKING

Trofie with Cavolo Nero Pesto and Beans

[made for Juliette and Jesse]

Making hand-rolled pasta feels like a desire exercise. I find myself in silence thinking of something on repeat, focusing all of my thoughts into the dough. This one is made of just semolina and water. To roll it you have to roll a sausage with your hand forward, and then tug it back diagonally under the side of your palm so it twists up. Each time tugging the shape back and my thoughts getting all entangled in it. So eating it you’re eating my thoughts really. Trofie is really one of the most beautiful pasta shapes, all unreal and scraggly but also elegant at the same time with its coils. Made with roughly beaten cavolo nero pesto roughly beaten in the pestle and mortar, the proper muscle-tugging way, and beans I pulled apart so they could lie limp and twist around the pasta, and the whole thing could be swirly, made all glossy with the help of (shhhhhh it’s a secret) lots of butter.

RECIPE

PASTA

Make a classic semolina and water pasta dough, two parts flour to one part water. I love non-egg-based doughs as they are so much easier to work with. Leave to hydrate for at least 30 mins, covered in cling film.

Roll it out into long thick noodles and then cut into small gnocchi-sized pieces. I don’t know how to write down how to make the shape, you have to look it up. Basically roll your hand forward and then pull back, letting it twist under your palm.

PESTO

You can make pesto however you like. Making a recipe feels anti-sensual. As long as you have a: green, nut, garlic, parmesan/pecorino, olive oil. For this I blanched the cavolo nero first. Add the garlic and nuts first to the pestle and mortar and then continue to add the ingredients. I added lemon to this as well.

Pull the French beans apart so both sides separate and you can see the tiny tiny beans inside. Frazzle in lots of butter before adding the pesto to it. Let that melt for a sec and then add the pasta and pasta water to the pan. The butter and pasta water make it so beautiful and glossy. Make for someone you love.

Ricotta dressed with lemon, honey and fennel

[cooked for Ellen, Siam, Jesse, Zav, Fraser]

I made this for my hungry friends to eat with bread while I was finishing cooking dinner. But look how pretty she is. And so easy. Just toast some fennel seeds for a sec in a pan then add some good quality olive oil, lemon juice, and some very thinly cut lemon slices, honey, fennel seeds, salt and pepper. Once everything is warm and the honey melted leave it to cool a little bit, but while it’s still warm dress the ricotta. Have with warm bread :)

I made it to go alongside this Strozzapretti pasta with fennel, leeks and nutmeg, which was also lovely. And a kale salad with a lemon, tahini dressing and parmesan.

THE BEST CHEESEBOARD IN TOWN

[Oranj]

I created the cheese plate of the natural wine bar I work at. I get to order my favourite cheeses from my favourite cheesemongers in London, changing the selection every two weeks or so. I also make the pickles from all of our leftover veg, and we made the membrillo/quince jam ourselves, and the seeded crackers. My absolute perfect cracker, it’s accidentally gluten free and made entirely of seeds :0 and a tiny bit of corn flour.

Pie’s

Juliette and I have been using the leftovers from roasts and stews to make pies. It’s so fun to decorate them.

Pasta Con le Sarde & Fennels with Honey and Black olive Tapenade

[eaten with rosa, Bella, Ellen, Yas, Nellie]

Perfect dinner! OMG wow pasta con le sarde is truly an incredible recipe, so complex, a classic of Sicilian diverse flavours. Salty and fishy from the sardines, sweet from raisins, earthiness of saffron, and citrusy freshness with some orange zest in there. I used fennel fronds as I couldn’t find wild fennel, and tinned sardines. Served with fennel I cooked in chicken stock, lemon juice and honey, and served with black olive tapenade. It was so good! And herby green beans and lemon butter beans.

With all my ladies I love xxx

[below is more home cooking, 5 restaurants, 2 bars, 2 cocktails and some favourite wines]